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Lusaka is a city whose bustling chaos has a certain charm that is just Zambia.
The tourist passing through the capital may not see any reason to stay, but Lusaka is the product of a country battling to find its way in a new world, caught between colonial beginnings, years of socialist independence and now democracy. It typifies the problems many African countries face as they find their "independent" footing in world that’s surging ahead.
The fascinating thing about Lusaka is its energy. Not perhaps of the same ilk as the Big Apple, but an African energy, propelled by that need to survive.
Lusaka is as much a part of "the real Africa" as the rich national parks and stunning scenery. Well over 60% of its 2 million inhabitants are unemployed, but there are surprisingly few beggars. Although petty theft occurs, most people try to make an honest living, selling their wares or services and smiling to boot.
The markets are a hive of activity, the thousands of stalls are filled and cleared every day. A myriad of motor spares dealers, restaurants, hairdressers, fishmongers, fruitsellers and rows and rows of "salaula" - discarded clothing from the West sold to Africa by the bale.
Venture out to a nightclub or roadside shebeen and "get in the groove", so to speak, of the local people. Dance the night away to the sounds of rhumba, kwela, techno or good old rock 'n roll.
But Lusaka is also a city undergoing a facelift. A walk around the city will reveal new shops-including a new market and a multi-million dollar shopping mall under construction; smart fast food outlets; new double carraigeway roads, old buildings being refurbished and the transformation of the city's parks.
For many, this is the perfect example of what economic liberalisation has done for the country. And viewed from the villages, Lusaka is the glittering capital which still persuades rural Zambians to take the bus there in search of jobs and dreams.
The capital covers an area of over 70km sqare and is one of the fastest-growing cities in central Africa. It’s population almost trebled in the immediate post-independence era and continues to grow daily. There has been no influx control and the city is bursting at the seams. Grossly inadequate municipal facilities are hard-pressed to cope with the ever-increasing demand.
It is a sprawling, unplanned metropolis with many multi-storey buildings, high-walled suburbs and busy shanty towns. Fast-growing industrial development has brought together people of many nationalities, making it a bustling centre for economic, political and cultural activities.
The city lies at the junction of the main highways to the north, east, south and west at an altitude of 1 300m above sea level. There are air links to most of the major tourist destinations in Zambia from Lusaka International Airport.
The shops are mainly grouped along the broad double carriageway of Cairo Rd, but the government buildings are about 6km away along Independence Ave.
For maps of the city, try the Zambian National Tourist Board, the craft shop at the Pamodzi Hotel or the Map Centre, Mulungushi House, opposite the US embassy.
There is a local magazine called the Lusaka Lowdown which is a mine of information on what's happening in town and full of useful adverts for local services and products. Check out the online version.
Climate
The most appealing factor to many who have made Lusaka their home is the superb climate. Warm sunny summers, interspersed with cooling thunderstorms and mild winters with loads of sunshine.
It can get very hot between October and March if there’s no rain. The average rainfall, between November and April, is about 950mm. Summer temperatures range from 20 degrees to 32 degrees C. Winter temperatures from 10 degrees to about 26 degrees. Humidity is usually below 40%.
Where To Stay
Accommodation in Lusaka is plentiful and there are choices to suit all tastes and budgets. From Five star hotels, Well known hotel chains, Game lodges on private game reserves, to motels and quiet guesthouses in the suburbs.
A few kilometres from the CBD are the three top hotels, the Holiday Inn, the Inter-Continental Hotel and the Pamodzi.
For cheaper accommodation try the Fairview Hotel, Chrismar, Kafue Rd Garden, Garden House or Ndeke Hotels. The oldest hotel in the City is the Lusaka Hotel just off Cairo Rd.
Comfortable Guesthouses in the suburbs include the Wayside Bed & Breakfast just 4km South of the City Centre, and Juls Guesthouse just off the Great East Rd. Lusaka's newest establishment Reed Mat Lodge is well situated just off the Great East Rd on the way to the Airport with comfortable, home from home accommodation. Another one with very convenient shopping access is Chita Lodge.
There are also many guest houses and motels in and around town which offer basic but reasonably priced accommodation.
Nearby Private Game Reserves and Country Lodges
To avoid Lusaka completely, try Lilayi Lodge only 20km out on the Kafue Road on a pristine game ranch. Lilayi also offers Polo and game drives on the Ranch. They also have extensive Conference facilities.
Or Protea Safari Lodge about 35 minutes out on the Great North Road. Set on well-stocked private game ranch, they have luxury chalets and an excellent Restaurant. Well known for superb Sunday lunches. The ranches stock most of the antelope found in the country and have game drives and walking trails through the bush.
There are two other country lodges within an hour’s drive of the city: Lechwe Lodge, which also offers game drives, night drives and fishing on the Kafue River. Fringilla Farm is about 50km out on the Great North Road offering pleasant accommodation, camping, riding. Excellent Sunday lunches served from the braai in the gardens.
About 45 minutes north is the extensive Chaminuka Private Game Reserve with a luxury lodge and a wide variety of game including lion, elephant and giraffe, in untouched wilderness. The well appointed lodge also has an extensive collection of African art.
Camping, backpackers and overlanders
The best places for CAMPING : Eureka, about 10 km out of town on the southbound Kafue Road. Shady sites, great showers and a huge thatched "sitenje" housing a well-stocked bar, pool table and cosy lounge. Pioneer Campsite. Very popular with overlanders. If you're heading East to South Luangwa or Malawi (or coming in from the east). There is also a good backpackers' lodge in the middle of Lusaka in Mulombwa Close called Cha Cha Cha Backpackers.
Restaurants and Nightlife
Click here for a full list of restaurants including coffee shops, take aways, night clubs, pubs as well as their phone numbers.
Shopping
Most of the banks and many bureaux de change can be found along Cairo Road.
For groceries and general supplies, the newly opened Manda Hill shopping centre is where it's all at. This is Lusaka's first shopping mall and it's becoming a big hit with an excellent range of shops and boutiques. There's also a big supermarket in Cairo Rd. There are several suburban shopping centres, not of the mall type, but with a variety of shops that usually supply anything you need, mostly imported from Zimbabwe or South Africa and a little pricey. These are called Kabulonga, Northmead and Woodlands.
If not for shopping, but just for the experience of how the local masses shop, a visit to one of Lusaka’s markets is a must. It’s an interesting experience and well worth a visit, if just for the colourful and lively atmosphere. The Soweto Market is two roads west of Cairo Road, and the other opposite the Tazara building in Independence Ave. A new, smarter, roofed market has just been built along Freedom Way.
Curios and crafts can be found at Zambili in Luanshya Rd. The Book House shop, in the Manda Hills Shopping Center. Zintu Handicrafts are at the Holiday Inn. Moore Pottery on Kabalenga Road has an excellent range of ceramics, and Zintu Za Nyimba at the bottom end of Panganani Road sells a wide range of locally made wooden furniture, batiks, candle holders, lamps shades, hand-dyed cloths and carvings. Definitely worth a visit. Hope House in Luanshya Road is a charitable organisation providing support to Aids victims and sell a range of home-made crafts. Every last Saturday of the month there is an excellent craft market in Kabulonga suburb at the Dutch Reform Church grounds.
For Gemstones and fine jewellery, try Jagoda at the Holiday Inn or the Intercontinental Hotel.
You can buy film and get photographs processed at Phoenix Photographics halfway down Cairo Road. Books can be found at Tower Books at the Castle in Makeni, the Book House SHop at Manda Hills and Mary's Bookshop on the Leopards Hill Rd.
A word of warning - Lusaka is famous for car thieves, pick-pockets and bag snatchers, but if you have someone who can mind your vehicle and keep a good grip on your bags, it’s quite safe.
Places to Visit
Zambia’s Munda Wanga Environmental Park has blossomed into a functional educational and recreational center catering for the needs of Zambians and the country’s visitors. The excitement and interest of the lions, tigers, elephant, painted dogs and primates in the wildlife park and sanctuary is complemented uniquely by the tranquility and atmosphere of the beautiful botanical gardens. The terrace bar and café, braai stands, jungle gyms and playground, swimming pool and recreational area provide additional fun for the whole family. Drop in today and see for yourself. Open 365 days of the year, 09 hrs until 17 hrs. For further details of what is available and the entrance costs, contact us on Tel. 278 456/529, e-mail us on
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Kalimba Reptile Park has an impressive collection of snakes, all found in the surrounding area, crocodiles, tortoises and some of the most unusual chameleons found in Africa. The park is set in a lush garden with a kids playground, putt putt course and a verandah where refreshments are served. Head out of town on the Great East Road towards the airport and turn left at the last Caltex garage before the airport turnoff. Follow the signs for about 11km. The park, which is part of a fish farm, also sells fresh frozen fish and crocodile tails, as well as a range of crocodile bags, purses, belts, etc.
A good place for locally hand-crafted curios is the Kabwata Cultural Village, which is in the suburb of Kabwata along Burma Road. The residents are carving all day and a wide variety of items are for sale at reasonable prices. Test your bargaining skills.
Adventure City is a water theme park located two kilometers off Leopards Hill Rd near the American International School. The PArk offers three different attractions and these are the Botanical World, featuring desert, tropical and indigenous plants, picnic spots, braai areas and green lawns for fun and games. Water World consists of curved swimming pools for all ages, one of which has a water volleyball court, and Jungle Monkey. Tel: 287751/4
Lusaka National Museum on Independence Avenue is undoubtedly one of the most attractive public buildings in the city.This cultural history museum tells the story of Zambia in four main sections; ethnography, witchcraft, history and contemporary art. The ground floor presents the works of artists from Zambia's independence (1964) to date: contemporary paintings, sculpture and ceramics. With no national art gallery, this provides the visitors with a rare opportunity to sample Zambian Art. The upper floor houses historical and cultural artifacts. Particularly fascinating is the witchcraft exhibit which will give the visitor the opportunity to learn about a part of Zambian life that is rarely discussed, but is deeply imbedded in every sphere of daily life. Facilities: The museum has a small library, a small conference room and a snack shop. Opening hours: 9am-4. 30pm daily; closed public holidays. Admission: US$2 adults, US$1 children. Guided tours possible. Parking available.
Nembo Scenic Park is located 11 kilometers from the city centre at Ngwerere. This scenic park is designed to scale over 47 000 square meter area depicting a model of the map of Zambia featuring the waterfalls and lakes of in the country. It's ideal for individuals, school children and environmental groups. Open from 10:00 to 17:00 on weekend and public holidays by special arrangement by phoning 01 250152
Bente Lorens Ceramic Studio in Longacres has a fine collection of bowls, plates and ornaments which are also for sale. The Henry Tayali Visual Arts Centre at the showgrounds has a fine selection of works by Zambian artists. Single-exhibitor and group shows are held every month. Open daily from 10h00. ( See listings for Galleries)
Kalimba Reptile Park has an impressive collection of snakes, all found in the surrounding area, crocodiles, tortoises and some of the most unusual chameleons found in Africa. The park is set in a lush garden with a kids playground, putt putt course and a verandah where refreshments are served. Head out of town on the Great East Road towards the airport and turn left at the last Caltex garage before the airport turnoff. Follow the signs for about 11km. The park, which is part of a fish farm, also sells fresh frozen fish and crocodile tails, as well as a range of crocodile bags, purses, belts, etc. Mundawanga Park has been renovated and is back operating.
The Aylermer May Cemetery in Lagos Rd, Rhodes Park. This was Lusaka's first Cemetery and has recently bee refurbished.
There are several car-hire companies in Lusaka to help you get around: see car hire listings for contact numbers.
Day Trips
Lilayi Game Ranch, 20 minutes outside of town, is set on a 700 hectare farm, a part of which has been uncultivated and left in its pristine bush state. There are 19 different antelope species but no predators,so they’re a lot less skitttish than in the national parks. Over 200 birds species have been recorded here, which can be spotted on walking trails, game drives or horseback trails. Bookings are essential .
Chaminuka Private Game Reserve just 45 minutes north of Lusaka offers a superb wildlife Safari and lunch in beautiful surroundings. One can also take a horseback trail through the Reserve, go fishing, enjoy a swim, play tennis and relax in their outdoor jacuzzi and sauna. The Reserve has more species of animals than any other game park in Zambia, including, lion cheetah, giraffe, elephant, ostrich and even the elusive sitatunga. It does offer day package special which can be found at the rates section of their web site.
Another reason to visit Chaminuka is their extensive Art Gallery . Historically the Sardanis family have been serious promoters of Zambian Art. Chaminuka, has a collection of more than 1000 pieces of art, ranging from traditional artefacts collected in over 35 countries in Africa, to contemporary sculpture and painting collections.
Zambili Crafts and Cafe D'Afrique near the centre of town is a great place to stop over for lunch. Traditional foods and cultural performances, situated in Kalundu.
JLazyJ Farm is a 1 500 hectare bird sanctuary also 20 minutes from town. The owner will take you horseback riding through the pristine miombo woodland or one can simply do walks and birdwatching on one’s own.
Trotover Equestrian Centre offers horseback hacks through indigenous forest with natural obstacles, or birdwatching walks. This is a great spot for a family picnic - with a pool and a few streams.
Foxdale Ostrich Farm
Lechwe Game and Fish Farm is within an hour of Lusaka on the banks of the Kafue River. The river’s proximity attracts many waterbirds. Sixteen different antelope species can be seen in the woodlands and floodplains of the area. On offer are horse trails and boat rides down the river. Booking essential.
At the Kafue Marina, also within an hour’s drive from town, one can hire a boat or canoe and there are picnic facilities with barbecues and rondavels. Take the Kafue Road out of town and turn left just before the Kafue Bridge, followed by another left and a right.
Sporting Facilities
There are several sports clubs in Lusaka which offer facilities for golf, tennis, swimming and squash. For golfers, there’s the Lusaka Golf Club, Chilanga Golf Club and Chainama Hills Golf Club. The Lusaka Club offers bowls, tennis and squash. Polo is a popular sport, especially among expatriates, and the polo field at the showgrounds usually has matches on the weekends. Hash House Harriers organise walks and runs on Saturdays at 15h00. Several swimming pools are available. The large Lusaka City Council swimming pool just off Lubu Road is open every day except Mondays from 10h00 to 18h00. One can also use the pools at the Inercontinental and Pamodzi hotels at modest prices.
Convention Centres
Mulungushi Hall: The main hall can accommodate up to 2 000. Four other committee rooms can take from 40 to 200 people. There is a simultaneous translation service and proceedings can be transmitted on closed-circuit television.
The Inter-Continental Hotel, Pamodzi, Holiday Inn, Lilayi Lodge, Chaminuka Private Game Reserve , Ndeke Hotel and Hillview Hotel also have full conference and banqueting facilities.
Getting There
Lusaka is close to the centre of Zambia between the eastern and western bulges. All major routes to the east, west, north and south flow through the city.
The Great North Road comes down from Tanzania via Kapiri Mposhi, and is about 1 100km from the Tanzanian border.
The Great East Rd from Chipata to Lusaka is 570km.
The road from Livingstone in the south meets up with the "Kafue Road" and is 470km long. From the Chirundu border with Zimbabwe, the route is well paved and 136km long.
The Mongu road coming in from the west via the Kafue National Park is 591km long.
The domestic railway goes to Livingstone, Kapiri Mposhi and the Copperbelt. The Tanzania Zambia Railway - Tazara - comes down as far as Kapiri Mposhi, where the Zambia Railways train links it to Lusaka. Buses arrive from Harare, Lilongwe, Johannesburg, Livingstone and the Copperbelt.
Lusaka International Airport, which is 14km from the city centre, receives most international flights.
Zambian Airways will flies to and from Johannesburg and currently has scheduled flights to Mfuwe, Chipata, the Copperbelt and Livingstone.
InterAir Flies into Ndola from Johannesburg and Entebbe from where a connecting flight to Lusaka can be taken.
Getting around
No scheduled bus services - taxis range from 12 seater minibuses to dilapidated cars to good dial up cabs to chauffeur driven vehicles.
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